New Designs in Weaving by Donald Wilcox (1970)
It started with this little book….
In 2013, I purchased New Designs in Weaving by Donald Wilcox (1970) from a used book fair. I had no idea the book would set forward a body of research that would ultimately lead me to research my own Finnish family history, an MFA and travel to Finland.
Among the artists featured was that of Finnish designer Maija Kolsi-Mäkelä. My search to learn more about her did not come up with much and I set about to change that.
Brief History
Maija Kolsi-Mäkelä (1911-1982) worked as art director and principal designer for Helmi Vuorelma Ltd. from 1935 until 1976. Helmi Vuorlema produced textiles for the home and decor, kits and national costumes. They recently have been restructured after bankruptcy in 2014.
According to my communications the museum, her designs number over 800!
MKM started with designing cushions, coverlets and curtain textiles. She would go on to design art textiles including ryijy (shag woven wall pieces also known as ryas), täkänä (double weave pieces), kuultokudos (transparencies).
It should be noted that these pieces were designed by Kolsi-Mäkelä but not one of a kind. She would make the design and it was woven by other crafts people for sale. Her designs are frequently available for sale online in galleries, resale shops and auction houses. Pricing should reflect the nature of the work.
Hedelmä (fruit) is a common design to find for sale. I have seen six examples of various sizes over the years. This one is in my collection and the drawing is from The Craft Museum of Finland.
1. Maija Kolsi-Mäkelä, Hedelmä, date unknown, täkänä (double weave), linen, personal collection. 72” x 24.5” Photo: Mandy Pedigo
Maija Kolsi-Mäkelä’s design sketch for Hedelmä (fruit), 1959
Photo credit: The Craft Museum of Finland Archives
Tag example
Helmi Vuorelma textiles have two tags - one is woven with the company name and location and stitched to the fabric. The other has the designer’s name, title of the work, type of textile and company name. It attached with an adhesive and is sometimes removed or otherwise missing.
From My Personal Collection
Maija Kolsi-Mäkelä, Iltarusko, date unknown, double weave (täkänä), linen, personal collection. 47” x 45” Photo: Mandy Pedigo
Maija Kolsi-Mäkelä, Asteri, date unknown, transparent weave, linen, personal collection. 19” x 19” Photo: Mandy Pedigo
The Work Continues
In the spring of 2020 Surface Design Association’s Journal will featured an article about my research. Copies of the full magazine are available via SDA’s shop.
Read the article here. In May of 2020, I was going travel to Finland to continue my research and lay some ground work for extended study. Due to the pandemic, my trip has been postponed.